Hidden Ryogoku: Exploring Neighborhoods Near Sumo Stables Like a Local
Ushijima Jinja (牛嶋神社)
Nestled in the Honjo/Mukojima neighbourhood of Sumida, Ushijima Jinja is known locally as the “Cow Shrine” for its beloved cow statue. In Japan, there's a popular folk belief that gently stroking a reclining cow statue, known as a nade-ushi, can help with healing injuries. If you’re experiencing pain in a specific part of your body, you’re encouraged to pat the same area on the cow. For example, those with back pain might rub the cow’s back. Needless to say, sumo wrestlers who are often afflicted with a host of injuries suffered on the dohyo or in training, sometimes come here to pray for good health and recovery. It’s just a short walk (around 10 minutes) from Naruto stable, and not too far from the Sensō-ji Buddhist temple and famous Kaminarimon gate in Asakusa.
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Leaves Coffee Roasters
Just around the corner from Kataonami stable is one of Japan’s most celebrated coffee roasteries. Owned by award-winning roaster Yasuo Ishii, a former boxer, Leaves Coffee Roasters has earned a loyal following for its expertly sourced beans and bright, aromatic profiles—lighter than what you’ll find at most traditional Japanese shops. Tucked into Tokyo’s old shitamachi district, this cosy micro-roastery opens as a café only from Friday to Monday, so be sure to plan accordingly. Seating is extremely limited and wait times can stretch to an hour during peak times, so arriving early is recommended. Note that the focus here is entirely on coffee—if you’re after a more relaxed café with food options, check out our next stop instead.
LATTEST Mizumachi
Another location close to Naruto stable is LATTEST Mizumachi, part of a small group of cafes run entirely by women who are striving to create better relationships between coffee farms and consumers. Within the trendy waterside shopping district TOKYO mizumachi (beneath the Tobu Skytree Line between Asakusa and Skytree), this particular LATTEST location (also called LATTEST SPORTS) is a cafe‑bar offering specialty coffee, light meals and snacks including sandwiches, French toast, and cookies. Within the same building there’s a bicycle shop and bouldering centre, and it’s laptop-friendly with outlets in many of the seating areas. It’s open every day from 10am to 10pm, making it a great spot for an evening drink, too.
Ulaan Baatar (Mongolian Restaurant ウランバートル)
Tired of Japanese food and want to try another cuisine important to many sumo wrestlers? Located at 3‑22‑11 Ryogoku, Sumida‑ku, on the 2nd floor, Mongolian Cuisine Ulaan Baatar is owned by former wrestler Hakuba (白馬毅) and serves hearty, authentic Mongolian fare including the famous buuz dumplings and khushuur fried meat pastries. It features a few sumo-related memorabilia on the walls, and is frequented by Mongolian rikishi living in the area. It’s just a 5 minute walk from the Kokugikan, making it an excellent place to visit after watching a tournament live, but it’s best to book ahead during match days.
Sumida River Walk
The Sumida River Walk is a 160‑metre pedestrian bridge connecting Asakusa to Mukojima, opened in 2020. It runs alongside the Tobu Skytree Line, offering sweeping views of the Sumida River, the embankments, and Tokyo Skytree itself. Although the bridge itself is called a “Walk,” both sides of the Sumida River in the Ryogoku area feature extensive paths for walking and running and are great, safe places to chill out at any time of day with many other locals getting their daily exercise in here, too. Happy exploring!
